[vc_row][vc_column][penci_container][penci_column width=”11″][vc_custom_heading text=”Fiji’s best nature-based activities” font_container=”tag:h1|font_size:42|text_align:center|color:%233a3a3a|line_height:1.2″ google_fonts=”font_family:Playfair%20Display%3Aregular%2Citalic%2C700%2C700italic%2C900%2C900italic|font_style:400%20regular%3A400%3Anormal” css=”.vc_custom_1635977598878{padding-right: 50px !important;padding-bottom: 15px !important;padding-left: 50px !important;}”][vc_separator color=”custom” border_width=”3″ el_width=”10″ accent_color=”#d89145″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1635978228655{padding-right: 50px !important;padding-left: 50px !important;}”]When serial adventurer and author Paul Theroux lobbed into Fiji while paddling the Pacific he observed in The Happy Isles of Oceania that ‘loud laughter was the Fijian way of conveying the bad news that something was impossible.’ It’s hard to imagine good-natured Fijians being disagreeable. Along with their trademark ‘Bula’ greeting, Fijians are known for warm hospitality – wide-mouthed smiles that invariably precede laughter.
Their easy going nature almost guarantees that a Fiji holiday is going to be good fun. Toss in an island archipelago with an abundance of natural beauty and Fiji’s heart and you’ve found Fiji’s heart and soul. Here’s our top picks for getting your nature fix in a tropical paradise.
Hike to the Wailing Rock & send a message on the coconut telegraph
Long before mobile phones dominated our lives, Fijian warriors were using nature’s own coconut telegraph to communicate. Using a hollow wooden log Tui Lawa elders would strike a wailing rock called Vatu Tagi, much like a drum and which has a distinct ringing sound, to send messages during times of war. The sound would reverberate around Malolo Island, informing elders to convene for a chiefly meeting.
There’s a Fijian saying that translates to ‘Malolo is where the sun comes to rest’ based on a belief that it appeared that the sun was resting as it set behind Malolo Island. The wailing rock is located on a large rocky outcrop high atop the summit of Malolo and is accessed via a narrow track. The hike is popular as a pre-breakfast appetiser or at dusk to witness the sun rest upon the Pacific Ocean.
Get there from Malolo Island Resort
Celebrate an ancient turtle calling ceremony
Villagers at Namuana Village on Kadavu Island perform an emotional sacred turtle calling ceremony high on a headland above Udelevu beach. Legend has it that a princess and her daughter were out fishing when they were captured by warriors and tossed into the boats’ hold. When a storm threatened to capsize the vessel the women morphed into turtles and escaped.
Today, colourfully dressed women summon their descendants by dancing, chanting and singing to call turtles home. When a turtle surfaces and makes its way shoreward the laughing, singing and chanting reaches fever-pitch as the whole village celebrates the reappearance of their ancestors.
Get there via a Lau Island Cruise with Captain Cook Cruises[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”14913″ img_size=”large” alignment=”center”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1635978474296{padding-right: 50px !important;padding-left: 50px !important;}”]
Get castaway on an uninhabited island
Tom Hanks along with his bearded bedraggled character Chuck Nolan have a lot to answer for. Ever since he washed up on uninhabited Modriki Island (also known as Monuriki) after a plane crash, travellers have been flocking to the island he was marooned on in the 2000 movie Cast Away. It’s understandable. Beyond the obvious ‘Insta boasting-worthiness’ of the islands serene beauty, a forest clad peak tumbling into a swathe of white sand kissed by an emerald sea are the drawcard. Snorkelling, swimming, beachcombing and daydreaming of an uncomplicated life on a tropical island keep most visitors enthralled.
Get there on a day trip from Likuliku Island Resort.[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”14915″ img_size=”large” alignment=”center” css=”.vc_custom_1635978527711{padding-right: 25px !important;padding-left: 25px !important;}”][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1635978569870{padding-right: 50px !important;padding-left: 50px !important;}”]
Wash away your cares in a therapeutic mud bath
There’s no denying the allure of therapeutic warm spring-fed mud pools at Sabeto Mud Baths. Fed by geothermal spring water from an inland volcano, the outdoor baths have a distinct sulphuric aroma typical of therapeutic pools.
The mud bath ritual is not for the squeamish. Wearing a swimsuit (tip: do not wear white!) visitors step into the warm muddy waters of a small pool as soft mud squishes between their toes. After soaking in tepid waters bathers are then lathered in mud the colour of dark chocolate and the texture of clotted cream. It’s then a matter of standing around in the sun for around 20 minutes while the mud bakes firm and dry. Then it’s back into the pool to wash away the mud before hopping into a much cleaner and larger pool to soak away your cares (and any remaining mud).
Is the mud bath therapeutic? It’s hard to say, but it’s certainly good clean (eventually!) fun. It’s certainly relaxed in true Fijian style.
Get there by private car from Nadi or Lautoka
Hike to waterfalls in the rainforest
There is no better place to cool down from tropical heat than in a fresh water pool fed by a tumbling waterfall. Head to Tavoro Waterfalls in the Bouma National Heritage Park on Taveuni Island where a three-hour hike will take you to three waterfalls. The first swimming hole is a mere ten minutes from the trail head and has a large pool fed by a waterfall plunging about 25 metres. Leave the crowds behind and carry on hiking the forest trail where you’ll come to two more falls and swimming holes. The smallest waterfall has a pretty pool at its base inhabited by fresh water prawns. The trail can get a bit overgrown and slippery so sturdy hiking shoes are a must.
Nearby Lavena Coastal Walk is another splendid hike complete with coastal views, a swing bridge river crossing, and a waterfall reached by a short swim-through a grotto.
Get there from the Taveuni coastal road[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”14914″ img_size=”large” alignment=”center” css=”.vc_custom_1635978357549{padding-right: 25px !important;padding-left: 25px !important;}”][/penci_column][/penci_container][vc_row_inner][vc_column_inner]
Lonely Planet inspires slow travel with new guidebooks
Fiona Harper
LONELY PLANET INSPIRES SLOW TRAVEL
Lonely Planet inspire travellers to see the world by bike and by foot. Slow travel takes a whole new meaning at this sort of pace. New guidebooks are especially for travellers who like to combine cycling and running with their travels .
Lonely Planet’s first travel guide book was famously an accident according to co-founders Tony and Maureen Wheeler. The story goes something like most adventures do when a plan is formulated to travel somewhere new and unknown. Then things go awry.
You know how it goes. You depart on your trip, find something interesting that evolves into a deviation and before you know it the plan has gone out the window and you’re going off on some tangent to who knows where with a stranger who has recently become your BFF. That’s the joy of independent free-spirited travel, right?
The best travel adventures evolve from serendipity
This is exactly how some of my most fun travel adventures have played out. Like the time I was contracted to help deliver a yacht on a simple delivery from A (Tonga, actually) to B (Japan). Before too long the delivery turned into a island-hopping sojourn as the skipper revisited old stomping grounds, a mutiny ensued, I jumped ship in Guam, found a lift on a yacht sailing south and eventually returned home to New Zealand 6 months later.
Or more recently, when I flew to New York to run the marathon and ended up in Argentina then cruised to Antarctica on a squid games hunt for colossal squid ‘since I was in the area’. Travel is all about serendipity, being in the moment, having random conversations with strangers and taking up opportunities when they present.
The Wheelers didn't plan on becoming travel book publishers
The Wheelers original plan was to travel overland from London to Australia back in the early 1970s, spend a few months in Sydney then continue travelling around the world, returning to London within a year.
It turned out that people were fascinated with how they did their overland trip and wanted to know all the details. These casual conversations with other travellers eventually turned into LP’s first published guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. That first guide launched what would eventually become a global publishing house. But more importantly it became the catalyst for countless young travellers to leave home and see the world.
My first Lonely Planet book inspired a lifetime of travel
My first LP book was Southeast Asia on a Shoestring. I remember its distinctive canary yellow cover containing an inordinate amount of information. It talked about the logistics of travelling SE Asia, places to stay, where to eat and how to get around. It was enticing fodder for a teenager yearning to escape the boundaries of well-meaning parents and teachers.
I planned and dreamed of taking off with just a backpack, a head full of curiosity and a yearning to see the world. Eventually I did just that, though it was some years before I actually got to South East Asia. I left school, tossed my backpack onto a Greyhound bus and went north to Broome, hitching lifts to Australia’s east coast before eventually returning to Perth. That first independent travel adventure led me to buying my first yacht, which led me down a path that still resonates today (but that’s a whole other story).
Back then there was no internet and LP guides were gold for independent travellers. These LP guidebooks were trusted and respected and revered. They were thumbed through, yes religiously, like Catholics might treat a Bible. In so many ways LP’s later blue spines were indeed the travellers bible, passed around hostels with every word treated as gospel.
They still are. Though they’ve recently changed the look of their classic guidebooks as the company celebrates 50 years.
Despite the plethora of travel information at our disposal in print and online, LP remains at the forefront of travel guidebooks. It’s hard to argue against 50 years of publishing.
Lonely Planet guidebooks are not just for backpackers
Though these days you’re more likely to find their guidebooks on coffee tables or piled up beside beds for night time reading rather than tossed into backpacks. LP’s digital resources are constantly updated making the website far more valuable for travellers on the ground looking for up to date info.
With titles like Best Bike Rides Australia, Best Bike Rides New Zealand and Epic Runs of the World, LP produces travel titles that tap into our desire to combine travel with personal interests. Seeing the world from the perspective of a runner or a cyclist is the ultimate form of slow travel.
I’ve ridden bikes and participated in running events all over the world, motivated by active adventures as a reason to travel to a particular destination. So, when I saw these biking and running titles I couldn’t wait to get my hands on them. I’m still devouring them, lingering over every single page as I plan future travels.
Lonely Planet feeds my wanderlust
Like any self-respecting traveller with itchy feet waiting to hit the ground running, I’ve bookmarked pages and earmarked future runs and rides. My mind wanders while flicking through their pages each night before falling asleep, plotting, planning and dreaming of my next active adventures.
The truth is, I could use each book as inspiration for the next few years and still not get close to doing all of these runs or rides. But travel has never been about ticking off destinations or places like a shopping list. Rather, the planning and the dreaming and hitting the Confirm button on that airline booking site is as tantalising as the travel itself.
Which is ultimately the true pleasure of books such as these. They ignite our enthusiasm for travel while continuing to feed the flames of inspiration with the turn of each page.
Which epic run or ride ignites your flame? Australia’s Gold Coast? New Zealand’s South Island? Paris perhaps? The savannahs of South Africa? Let me know in the comments where you’re headed!
About these running & riding travel books
Epic Runs of the World
In this comprehensive runner’s companion, you’ll find 50 of the world’s greatest running routes – from short city runs and must-do marathons to cross-country trails and challenging ultras – plus a further 150 courses around the globe to satisfy runners of all abilities.
Each run is accompanied by photos, map and toolkit of practical details – where to start and finish, how to get there, where to stay and more – to help you plan the perfect trip. Suggestions for similar runs around the world are also included.
Organised by continent, Lonely Planet’s Epic Runs of the World takes runners past giraffes, zebras and rhinos in Africa, along courses the length of Vancouver’s Stanley Park Seawall in the Americas, offers spectacular views of Hong Kong from Victoria Peak in Asia and jogs along Rome’s Tiber River in Europe, while inviting athletes to push themselves to the limit in Oceania’s Blue Mountains Ultra.
Best Bike Rides Australia
– 40 day trips on two wheels from easy to hard, a few hours to full day rides. . From rail trails to coastal pathways, there’s easy-to-follow trails for cyclists and E-bike riders.
Colour maps (including elevation charts) and images throughout.
Special features – on Australia’s highlights for cyclist, kid-friendly rides, accessible trails and what to take.
Region profiles cover when to go, where to stay, what’s on, cultural insights, and local food and drink recommendations to refuel and refresh.
Featured regions include: Sydney and Around, Byron Bay to the Sunshine Coast, The Daintree and the Far North, the Outback, Southwest Forests to the Sea, Flinders to Fleurieu, Grampians to the High Country, the Prom to the Great Ocean Road, and Tasmania
Essential info at your fingertips – ride itineraries accompanied by illustrative maps are combined with details about ride duration, distance, terrain, start/end locations (including bike rental options) and difficulty with over 50 maps.
Best Bike Rides New Zealand
38 day trips on two wheels to explore New Zealand, from a couple of hours to a full day, from easy to hard. From rail trails to coastal pathways we cover the country with easy-to-follow trails for cyclists and E-bike riders.
Colour maps (including elevation charts) and images.
Special features – on New Zealand’s highlights for cyclist, kid-friendly rides, accessible trails and what to take.
Region profiles cover when to go, where to stay, what’s on, cultural insights, and local food and drink recommendations to refuel and refresh.
Featured regions include: Marlborough, Bay of Islands, Akaroa, West Coast, Central Plateau, Milford Sound, Waiheke Island, Kaikoura, Mackenzie Country, Waitomo Caves, Canterbury, Rotorua, Wellington, Auckland, Christchurch, Queenstown and more
Essential info at your fingertips – ride itineraries accompanied by illustrative maps are combined with details about ride duration, distance, terrain, start/end locations (including bike rental options) and difficulty with over 48 maps.
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Welcome to Darwin Airport where resort hotel and terminal sit side-by-side
Fiona Harper checked into Darwin Airport for a weekend getaway with a difference. Arriving at the airport she bypassed the airport terminal and went straight to the all-new Novotel Darwin Airport Resort instead.
Read her review to see how this airport resort hotel in the Northern Territory lived up to expectations.
Imagine stepping off an aircraft, waltzing through the airport terminal and plonking yourself down poolside in a sunlounge amidst a tropical paradise. This is the sort of welcoming experience awaiting at Darwin Airport Resort, a groundbreaking concept that redefines airport accommodation. Stepping out of Darwin Airport the first thing you’ll notice is the steamy heat of the tropics. A swimming pool in this climate is not a luxury it’s essential for your sanity. So it makes absolute sense that the Territory’s sexiest pool is the central hub of this swanky new airport hotel.
You can imagine my disappointment upon checking in to be told that the mammoth Olympic-plus sized pool is closed. Looking over the receptionist’s shoulder I can see the water cascading down the glass-fronted swimming pool.
Swimming pools in the Territory are essential to combat tropical heat
“How come it’s closed?” I ask.
“They’re doing maintenance,” says the receptionist without further explanation. That’s odd I think. The hotel and its pool only just opened. Weeks later, a friend who was lured to the hotel for its alluring pool gets the same explanation. I have plenty of time to ponder the question as I wait for my room key. It’s just after midday, so I’m a little early for the 2pm check-in time.
But, it’s low season, and according to room availability listed online, there’s plenty of unoccupied rooms. But, rules are rules.
So I wait. After 30 minutes or so after wandering around the open-air lobby, perusing the menu at Splash Cafe and peering over the wall to see the pool which is invitingly close but most definitely out of bounds, I decide to get back in my car and drive to Casuarina to get lunch. The receptionists takes my number and says she’ll call me when the room is ready.
The call never comes. So I go to my room at 2pm and kill more time waiting outside while someone comes to give me a key card and let me in. My room – a Deluxe King Suite – when I finally get in, is lovely. It’s an odd start to a weekend getaway at a hotel which proudly boasts of its in-house training program. I do hope that things become a little more polished as the busy season arrives and guests are likely to be far more demanding.
A New Chapter for A
A new chapter for airport resorts and hotels opens
Darwin Airport Resort is rooted in tradition
Savour the airport resort's local flavours and tropical vibe
Darwin Airport Resort commits to Indigenous hospitality
Here's what I liked about Darwin Airport Hotels
The mammoth pool looked so inviting, and I’m sure it’s a terrific place to hang out. When it opens.
I really liked my King Deluxe Suite for its modern, clean look and spaciousness with bedroom and separate living room. A small deck is shaded by tropical garden. The bathroom has a massive walk-in-shower with enough room to hold a dance party. The king bed with crisp linen and overstuffed pillows was an absolute delight.
The lush gardens are trimmed and well cared for and give a tropical feel and soften concrete hotel walls.
Here's what I didn't like about Darwin Airport Hotels
Again, the mammoth pool looked so inviting, so it was disappointing that it wasn’t open. The lagoon pool at the Mercure was hosting kids birthday parties on both the days I was there so it was a noisy, chaotic space that didn’t endear me to lounging in a sun lounge reading a book.
I put the laborious check-in process down to teething problems as staff presumably become accustomed to new processes.
More information Darwin Airport Hotels
The writer was a guest of Novotel Darwin Airport Resort.
Luggage Review of Base Camp Roller Duffel bag from The North Face
Fiona Harper is a global traveller who demands a lot from her luggage. She put The North Face’s Base Camp Duffel Roller to the test on travels between the polar regions, almost twice around the world and all points in between.
How did the roller duffel, which she spent so much time with she named Ruby Tuesday, stack up? Scroll down to read Fiona’s luggage review.
Every single item in my travel bag is there for a purpose. As a professional traveller who spends much of the year on the road, I take luggage and packing seriously. I’ve packed up and moved onto to the next airport, hotel, ship, boat or whatever so many times, I can seriously go from waking up to out the door in less than 10 minutes. So this luggage review comes from real life experience across the globe.
Many of the essentials that make it into my luggage have multiple purposes. All are given a gig based on a rating of their usefulness, their weight and the amount of space they take up. If I was doing one or two trips a year it wouldn’t matter.
But I often travel back-to-back on assignments with little or no time in between trips to repack. During one extended period recently I spent two days at home in 15 months, living out of my Base Camp Roller Duffel bag as I travelled between north and south polar latitudes and almost twice around the world. I travelled by plane, train, ship, sailboat, by car, by bus and by bike. My luggage needs to keep up with this often gruelling schedule.
Some people take novelty ‘friends’ or toys on their travels, photographing them in iconic locations around the world. It’s a fun sort of way to add a theme to travels and the photos shared on socials. You’ve all seen garden gnomes at the Eiffel Tower, right?
Sadly, I don’t have the space in my travel gear for such indulgences.
The right luggage can make or break a trip
Everything has a dual purpose. For example, a well-travelled black sarong works overtime as a beach or pool coverup, has been seen to grace the red carpet as a skirt or shoulder wrap at fine dining restaurants, but is is most commonly seen on aircraft as either a blanket or a headscarf blocking out the light so I can catch some sleep. In Muslim countries it’s perfectly modest to pass as a chador.
My not-quite-as-well-travelled wet weather jacket is also a serial multi-tasker. When not keeping rain or sea spray at bay it’s rolled up into its inbuilt hood and doing time as a cushion wedged against the wall of an aircraft window seat. Elastic sided black Hush Puppy walking boots have gone from hiking trails to 5 star hotel to a Texas dance floor all in one day. Likewise a pair of black cargo pants teamed with a black merino wool thermal top which just needs a colourful scarf to go from walking city streets or Arctic explorations to sophisticated dinner. Colourful cotton tunic tops (hello West Indies Wear!) brighten up tropical days or Antarctic nights when teamed with aforementioned merino underlayers.
Choose luggage that is robust
So when I went looking for luggage that was up to the task of accompanying me on global travels, the first thing I looked for was a multi-tasking travel bag. The well-travelled folks at The North Face get this.
My bag had to be able to cope with all the rigours of travel, stand up to being tossed around by uncaring baggage handlers, keep my worldly goods safe and not damage my things safely tucked within its inner. But number one priority was that it had to be tough.
The bag had to stand up to being tossed into the bilges of small boats, piled atop stores in milk-run 6 seater aircraft, dragged across beaches and gravel airstrips while also frocking up to fancy hotel foyers and not embarrassing me with its travel-worn scars.
The North Face makes serious luggage for travellers
As a professional mostly solo, full time traveller, my luggage is almost an extension of myself.
My bag of choice from The North Face is the 97 litre-capacity Base Camp Duffel Roller. It’s fair to say I’ve put Ruby Tuesday through a rigorous challenge over almost two years of travel. Though she bears the scars of transiting through more than 100 airports (as do I… continous travel is not for feeble), she’s still in travel-ready shape and looks like she’ll outlast me.
We’ve spent so much time together I feel a weird sort of affection for my duffel bag.
I’ve said a mental goodbye to her so many times at airport check-ins I christened my scarlet red bag Ruby Tuesday. Ruby has not let me down once, turning up on queue at baggage carousels every single time. (Thank you to all the unknown baggage handlers who have managed this feat).
Here’s some of the reasons I wholeheartedly recommend and endorse this bag, whether you’re taking your first overseas trip or are a seasoned traveller who’s lost count of airports transited through.
For the statistic nerds, this Ruby Tuesday’s 22 month travel diary during 2022/23:
Days on the road: 388
- Airports transited: 128
Flights: 100+
Trips: 33
Countries: 17
Here's what I like about the Base Camp Roller Duffel
- Sturdy wheels – honestly I can’t believe these two wheels are still functioning. I’ve put them through far more jobs than their pay scale warrants. And still they keep rolling relentlessly towards my next destination.
- Soft outer shell – I do a lot of trips that take me off the beaten track. Whether that’s travelling on small ships, even smaller sailboats or perhaps zipping between islands on a teeny powerboat. Other times I’m getting around in seaplanes or helicopters. All of which have limited cargo space. Few have capacity to squeeze a hard-shell four-wheeled suitcase into their holds. The soft sides of the Base Camp Duffel Roller mean the bag can actually be squeezed into tight spaces. Ruby Tuesday is a little like a shape shifting octopus morphing into different shapes depending upon her environment.
- Flexible carrying options – The Base Camp Duffel Roller has two top straps. One has flexible lengths and is for rolling the bag on its twin wheels. The other is the kind that baggage handlers and porters love when they need to hoist the bag onto a trolley. But the best carrying option is the addition of backpack straps. Though I don’t use this too often, this feature comes into its own when travelling to far-flung islands, like in Fiji or the Solomon Islands for example. When a burly Fijian man greets me on the beach and offers to carry my bag, I couldn’t be more grateful to show him the backpack straps as he hoiks the heavy bag onto his shoulders like its the weight of fairy floss. I wish my own shoulders were as strong… sigh.
Features of the Base Camp Roller Duffel
Other features I really like:
- Though Ruby Tuesday is ostensibly a duffel bag, the solid base and wheels mean she’s robust enough to stand vertically (this becomes usefully apparent when moving through airports or when waiting for ubers, buses or taxis.
- Side compression straps mean the bag can be made smaller when space is at a premium.
- Waterproof outer shell and rainproof zip flap – though Ruby is unlikely to survive full immersion, the main zip and overlaid flap keeps pretty much all water out. Same with the one-piece main compartment. If she sits in a boat bilge with water lapping I’m too concerned about my worldly possessions getting soaked.
- Internal capacity is huge. One mesh pocket runs along the top inner flap, and is useful for storing paperwork and maps I collect along the way. I use compression bags to keep everything sorted and easily found – like a filing system. One each for bottoms, tops, smalls, shoes, tech gear etc.
- There’s a top zippered compartment that’s separate to main compartment and is useful for stashing travel gear I want quick access to – jacket, notebook, spare clothes etc.
Overall this roller duffel is incredibly strong and even after almost two years of near-constant travel the outer material shows no sign of tears or holes that other soft bags are susceptible to. I’m seriously impressed.
Here's what I didn't like about the Base Camp Roller Duffel
There’s few things that I didn’t like about this bag, given all of the above and all the challenges I put it through.
Except… It’s big volume and non-compartmentalised interior means it can be really hard to find things. Often I would just pull everything out which meant my hotel room quickly became a hot mess. Once I discovered packing cubes that problem was sorted (I don’t why it took me so long to discover these gems!).
More information The North Face
Note: Base Camp Duffel Roller was provided to the writer for review purposes.
Why settle for a boring hotel room when you can check into one of the world’s best overwater bungalows? For a self-confessed water baby who’s partial to romantic tropical getaways, if given the choice I’ll always choose a room with a water view, water side location or, best of all, over the water with direct ocean ocean access from an overwater bungalow. Here are some of the best overwater bungalows from around the globe.
Likuliku Lagoon Resort | Fiji
Fiji has cornered the South Pacific market when it comes to idyllic beachfront hotels but there are only two resorts in the entire country that has overwater bures (Marriot Momi Bay opened in 2018). Islands magazine rates Likuliku Lagoon Resort at No. 3 in their Top 10 Most Romantic Resorts globally in part because of their stunning overwater offering. We rate Likuliku as one of our favourites too. Teetering atop the reef at the northern headland of a crescent shaped cove, 10 bungalows are styled on a traditional Fijian village. A luxurious adults only retreat, Likuliku means calm water and perfectly describes its Yasawa Islands location.
Glass panels in the floor as well as the bathroom vanity top bring the ocean indoors providing a sort of personal ‘marinelife TV’. Timber decks with sun lounges, outdoor showers and ladders into the sea allow full immersion for water babies.
Sofitel Bora Bora Private Island | Tahiti
Bora Bora is well known for it’s ridiculously turquoise seas bathed in a balmy tropical warmth. But this island archipelago is also famous for a proliferation of hotels perched above the sheltered water of ocean lagoons. Few are as plush as those found on the lush private island known as Motu Piti U u Uta. Arrive in James Bond speedboat style, zipping across the lagoon after touching down at Bora Bora Airport. Once ensconced in your Island Luxury Overwater Bungalow, enjoy views of the craggy peaks of Mt Otemanu. That is if you can drag your eyes away from the mesmerising ocean vista that dominates the foreground.
Naturally, elegant French-based Sofitel luxury hotel brand is at their most stylish in French Polynesia. Expect understated perfection. Accor’s sustainable development Planet 21 program includes such practises as serving non-endangered seafood and sourcing local produce in the restaurant and capturing that Tahitian sun to heat bungalow showers.
Royal Huahine Resort | Tahiti
While we’re talking Tahiti, Royal Huahine Resort is worthy of inclusion in our Best Overwater Bungalows feature simply because these Tahitian overwater bungalows are not located at Bora Bora. Not that there is anything wrong with Bora Bora, quite the opposite in fact. But it’s good to have options beyond the mainstream popular choices, right? Making few red carpet appearances for the paparazzi, Huahine Island gets a gong thanks to its far-flung location on the ‘Isle of Gardens’.
Moderately priced, small and intimate, Royal Huahine is for those who like to indulge in nature and can get by without an endless menu of scheduled activities or tours. Just eleven overwater bungalows face west to capture the sun setting over the watery horizon. Shaded sun decks and a swim platform at sea level make it easy for diving into the deep blue sea.
Warwick Le Lagon Resort | Vanuatu
Beautifully located above Erakor Lagoon in the heart of Port Vila, there are just 4 much-sought after overwater villas at Warwick Le Lagon. Unlike more traditional South Pacific overwater complexes that are linked to the land by elevated boardwalks, the villas at Le Lagoon are partially built onshore on a peninsula jutting out into the lagoon. They’re a little like a hotel room with the added advantage of tranquil lapping water viewed from a private patio on the seaward side.
All inclusive meal plans keep things affordable while Ni-Vanutua people rival Fijians for their warmth and friendly hospitality. Don’t miss Port Villa Markets for a fascinating insight into how the locals live, eat and play. Pop into the maze of craft stalls for some souvenirs to take home.
L’Escapade island Resort | New Caledonia
New Caledonia’s only overwater bungalows can be found at L’Escapade Island Resort, a short boat ride from downtown Noumea. 25 overwater bungalows are spacious, styled on functionality rather than luxury while being well appointed. Wide staircase-like steps to reach the sea where it’s likely you’ll see turtles foraging in the shallows.
As the resort is located on a private island, activities are limited and dining options outside the resort are non-existent. Go here for far-flung, tranquil relaxation with a French Melanesian cultural style.
Conrad Maldives Rangali Island | Maldives
It would be remiss of us to neglect to mention the Maldives, a country which is undisputed leader in overwater accommodation. The problem with the Maldives is where to start, with over 80 private island resorts, most of which have bungalows tottering above the sea. Some, like Conrad Maldives Rangali Island offer extreme indulgence. Like a 24 hour Butler service, glass floors, outdoor spa, private infinity pool and ocean view bathtub for example. How about a circular bed that rotates through 270 degrees to follow the sun as it sinks into an endless Maldivian sea? Sure, why not.
If all that overwater action gets a little too tedious, drop down below sea level for an underwater dining experience at all-glass Ithaa Undersea Restaurant. But Conrad Maldives Rangali Island is not just a pretty face. The resort (which is actually 3 resorts in one) makes regular red carpet appearances, picking up awards for its outstanding accommodation, cuisine and hospitality.
Coconuts Beach Club | Samoa
In Samoa bungalows are called fales (pronounced far-lay) and are usually pretty simple huts consisting of little more than a raised timber platform with thatched roof. Samoan fales are just about always situated on a glorious white-sand beach shaded by coconut palms. Bedding down in a fale much as the locals do, is definitely one of those highly recommended ‘when in Rome’ holiday experiences. The six overwater fales at Coconuts Beach Club on Upulo Island raise the comfort factor significantly.
Walls of glass frame panoramic views from within and are a bonus for those who struggle in tropical heat and like to keep the air-conditioning cranked up yet still enjoy dreamy ocean views. Bathrooms are superb with with opaque ceilings bathing the room in light creating an outdoors feel – slide back the glass doors onto the sundeck and bathe indoors/outdoors while enjoying the salty scent of sea air wafting through.
4 Rivers Floating Lodge | Cambodia
Let’s move away from dazzling tropical atolls with overwater bungalows perched atop coral reefs for the moment. In Cambodia 4 Rivers Floating Lodge has an inland location surrounded by virgin jungle. In southern Cambodia at Tatai, 4 Rivers Lodge is not far from the Thai border and is midway between Bangkok and Phnom Penh. The jungle location is serene and green where nature dominates the view while forest walks and wildlife spotting is the main activity.
The 12 Tented villas are reminiscent of African safari game parks and are cleverly connected by floating boardwalks. Canvas walls are broken up with floor to ceiling mesh windows. The cathedral ceiling channels a Big Top circus tent with its lofty central peak. Octagonal shaped overwater tents come with king or twin beds, plush ensuite and a comfy sitting area. The best view in the house is from a sun lounge on the deck where jungle and river views dominate.
Aitutaki Lagoon Resort and Spa Cook Islands
Dreamy Cook Islands brochures were tantalising water babies to its shores long before Instagram became flooded with photos of untouched beaches shaded by palm trees. The Cooks ticks all those essential tropical holiday boxes: white sand, tick. Palm trees, tick. Tranquil lagoon teeming with marinelife, yep. Aitutaki Lagoon takes the gong for the most picturesque atoll on the planet. Throw in overwater bungalows lined with woven pandanus leaves, lofty thatched roofs, outdoor bathrooms on the edge of that lagoon and we’ve found holiday heaven. Warm and friendly Polynesian culture who open their ample arms to embrace visitors will ensure you never want to leave.
Avani Sepang Gold Coast Resort | Malaysia
Less than one hour’s drive from Kuala International Airport lies a little Malaysian secret getaway that feels a million miles away from the big city bustle. Admittedly, with 300 Polynesian-inspired overwater villas, the word is definitely out about this little piece of tropical paradise. No matter, it’s pretty easy to imagine you are the only resident once ensconced on a sun lounge bathed in a golden late afternoon glow, G&T in hand as the sun sinks below the horizon.
Have you stayed in an overwater bungalow? Would you like to? Tell us about your favourite overwater hotel in the comments below!
Fulaga Island – portrait of a timeless South Pacific village in Fiji
Muana-i-cake Village on Fulaga Island
Go beyond the South Pacific cliche of palm trees and beaches to meet the people of Muana-i-cake village (pronounced Mon-a-tha-key), a village of around 100 residents on Fulaga (pronounced Foo-lang-ah) Island (also spelt Vulaga Island) in Fiji’s remote Southern Lau Group. Fulaga Island is about as far east in Fiji as you can without sailing into International Waters.
With little outside influence, villagers live much as their ancestors did, fishing and farming to support each other, heavily influenced by traditional values. Sharing of skills and resources underpins a strong community spirit which benefits residents of three villages on Vulaga Island.
Men and women practice traditional crafts like weaving, carving and making magi magi, a rope woven from the fibres of coconut husks that is used to embellish buildings across Fiji. Vulaga Island weavers and carvers are recognised as some of the most skilled in Fiji with their craft works highly sought after.
If you can’t travel to Fulaga to see their crafts you can find some of these exquisite works from Lau artisans for sale in Jacks stores in Nadi and Suva.
READ Bay of Islands – one of the world’s best anchorages
Fulaga Village welcome by Chief Mika
“I am Mika Colati from Muana-i-cake village of the Vunikoro clan, Acting Chief of Vulaga Island in the Southern Lau Group, Fiji. I welcome you into our village.
I think it is a good idea to collect the stories from us, so everybody can look back at what is recorded to help us remember our traditions. I remember our forefathers, our grandfathers and my father and know that solesolevaki* and veiwasei* * is a good idea, we really like how it helps the village… our families can look back and everybody will remember our village.”
* Solesolevaki defines the community spirit which guides villager’s contribution to the overall prosperity of the village by helping each other with farming, building, fishing, family chores, or wherever else help is required.
** Veiwasei describes the generosity of sharing resources and skills between family, clan and village
Chief Mica (who sadly passed away in Nov 18) conducts sevusevu ceremony at Fulaga village
The author Fiona Harper and Chief Bese who sadly passed away some months after this photo was taken
What you should know about Fijian Sevusevu ceremony
Sevusevu is the name given to the gift presented to the village Chief when arriving at a Fijian village. The usual gift is yagona (kava root) or kava powder, and is offered to the Chief as a goodwill gesture to request permission to visit the villages’ traditional land and waterways.
Fiji’s common law decrees that all land belongs to locals and so permission must be sought when visiting. It is customary for visitors to seek permission through the head villager, known as Turaga ni Koro (pronounced too-ranga-koor-oh), to request sevusevu ceremony. To not do so is a sign of disrespect and visitors are considered trespassers if they do not partake in sevusevu.
Village etiquette requires that ladies wear clothing that covers their knees and shoulders, men should wrap a sulu or sarong around their legs and hats and sunglasses should be removed. Taking photographs of sevusevu is usually ok but it’s polite to ask first.
Sevusevu ceremony can be a short casual affair that is over in a few minutes or it can be an elaborate ceremony with the entire village present, and may be the precursor to an extended celebration around the kava bowl that lasts long into the night. It depends entirely on the village and how they choose to conduct sevusevu. The ceremony starts with everyone seated on the floor, the Turaga ni Koro will speak, the Chief will speak, usually in Fijian, then at the end there will be an English translation welcoming visitors into the village.
In Fulaga Island, sevusevu is always a reason for celebration, as it signifies new yacht crews have arrived in the lagoon and will likely be spending time in the village. Sevusevu is an opportunity for host families to welcome new arrivals and show them around the village. If a couple of yachts arrive around the same time, a group sevusevu ceremony will eventuate, the kava bowl is filled and visitors and villagers will likely spend many convivial hours around the kava bowl.[/vc_column_text]
Village Life on Fulaga Island
There are few places in the world where a war of global significance that impacted millions of people can slip by virtually unnoticed. Vulaga, a far-flung weathered limestone island archipelago rising from a picturesque lagoon in the South Pacific Ocean, is one of them.
An elderly island resident Moses says when asked about how village life has changed over the years that in the early 1940’s villagers had no inkling that a world war was raging over their watery horizon. “We didn’t know anything about a war. We had no radio,” he recollects.
Straddling the International Dateline dogleg at longitude 180 degrees, Fulaga Island is home to approx. 400 residents across three villages – Naividamu, Muana-i-rai and Muana-i-cake. Muana-i-cake is the central hub of Fulaga Island and is home to the primary school, nurses station and a hut which serves as the bank and post office.
Residents maintain a subsistence lifestyle, harvesting food from the land and sea to supplement supplies that come by the irregular barge service from Suva.
Visiting Fulaga Island
Cruising yachts make up most of the outside visitors to Fulaga, which almost 100 yachts dropping anchor in the lagoon each year. Some crews return year after year so warm is the welcome from villagers. Yachts pay FJD50 to the Chief before being invited to a sevusevu ceremony, the traditional welcome ceremony which grants permission for visitors to access land and sea belonging to the village. READ Boating Guide to Fulaga Island
Families at Muana-i-cake village take turns at hosting the crew of each yacht, inviting crew to become part of village life. The first time I visited Tai was my host, then the next visit Jojo (George) and Ma along with Tai hosted me. Their generous hospitality is almost overwhelming, sharing meals, fresh fruits and fish along with an endearing friendship. This hosting arrangement is not common in Fiji and offers a rare opportunity for visitors to get to know the locals and learn about village life. At Fulaga Island, with little digital connection and far from the high tech mainstream world, daily life is all about connecting with one another and helping family and friends.
On my first to Fulaga I travelled with Captain Cook Cruises, who run approx. three annual cruises to the Lau Group. On this first visited we stayed just long enough to get a tantalising taste of this beautiful island outpost, inspiring me to return. Later, I returned to the Southern Lau Group on a yacht for an extended visit after cruising the Northern Lau, then again last year. The fascination with this remote island remains, not just because of its drop-dead gorgeous island landscape (as important as that is). What really stands out from visiting Fulaga is the warmth and heartfelt welcome by villagers given to visitors.
Postcard from Indonesia’s Spice Islands
I’ve recently been exploring eastern Indonesia’s Spice Islands and Maluku Island groups. I was travelling onboard a traditional Indonesian sailboat, known as a phinisi, which is a timber-hulled gaff-rigged ketch. Ombak Putih has a crew of 15 Indonesian seafarers, guides and hospitality crew who kept our 12 passengers fed, hydrated and fully entertained over 12 days.
Following the ancient wake of 17th century spice traders
These images were captured to tell the story of our voyage as we followed in the wake of traders who landed on these shores as far back as the 16th century. The attraction was initially nutmeg, which only grew on one island – the small piece of land in the Banda Sea called Run Island (pronounced roon).
Alfred Wallace made his mark in the Spice Islands
We’re also following the trail of British natural historian Alfred Wallace (of the famed Wallace Line which distinguishes animal species east and west of the line) who had his epiphany about natural selection while suffering from malaria on Halmahera Island
We started our voyage in Ambon, travelled to Run Island and Banda Neira in the Banda Islands. Then we sailed northwards towards Sapura Island, Manipa Island, Balan Balan Island and Bacan Island. Crossing the Equator (my third time crossing by sea) north of the Guarici Archipelago we sailed into Ternate where our voyage ended.
I travelled with Seatrek Sailing Adventures who run sailing trips year round across Indonesia as far afield as West Papua from their base in Bali.
I hope you enjoy viewing these photos as much as I enjoyed making them.
If you’d like to see any of these images displayed on your own walls, please drop a comment below or contact me in the usual way – I can make it happen via my online store at mitribe.shop.
Fiona x
The stories behind the photographs
Capturing photographs from my travels around the world, I love the serendipity of heading out for an adventure to see what I may discover.
Boats and travelling across the sea is definitely where I feel most at home and I was thrilled to spend 12 glorious days sailing through eastern Indonesia. Find me a boatyard, a marina, an anchorage or a boat harbour and I can amuse myself for weeks, if not months.
The equipment I use
My main camera is a Canon 5DM4 with my go-to lens being a Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 ( I absolutely LOVE this lens!). I also travel with a Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8 L which works for wide-angle, and a 100-400mm which is great for wildlife.
Usually I travel with a Manfrotto tripod, though I also have a Manfrotto monopod which works well with the 100-400mm lens.
For calibrating my screens once I start the editing process I recommend either of these products:
Calibrate ColourChecker (sells for approx AUD250)
Datacolour SpyderX Pro (retails for approx AUD260)
Fiona Harper
HOW TO SWIM WITH TUNA & NOT END UP ON THE MENU
Fiona Harper takes her life in her hands swimming with Giant Tuna being primed for the Japanese sashimi market.
Giant Tuna are harvested in the Southern Ocean near South Australia’s Port Lincoln, with most destined for Japanese dinner tables. But before they’re bound for the dinner table swimmers can get up close and personal with these hungry predators of the deep sea.
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The sea erupts into a feeding frenzy & I'm in the thick of it
Slipping into the deep green ocean a few miles offshore from Port Lincoln in the Southern Ocean I’m enclosed by a circular net approximately 40 metres in diameter. Giant tuna are nowhere to be seen. In fact, the ocean seems devoid of any marine critters. I’m the only swimmer in the net and seem to have the entire ‘pool’ to myself.
So far, so good.
Gently buffeted by ocean swell, I’m grateful for the protection the net provides as these waters are known to house some of the most ferocious creatures in the sea. Great White Sharks live here, making me just a little nervous, though I know I’m safe within net which forms the tuna enclosure.
Soon however my attention is drawn to the sea below which has suddenly erupted into a boiling frenzy of splashes, fins and tails. The water explodes into a feeding frenzy and I’m in the thick of it. I feel like I’m in a horror flick as those terrifying scenes from Jaws flash through my head.
I tell myself to stay calm. Then, I take a deep breath, fill my lungs and my snorkel with great gulps of air and I duck my head underwater to see what the heck is going on. The giant tuna have arrived and I literally squeal with excitement in my snorkel.
Swimming with giant tuna is not for the squeemish
I confess I was less than thrilled when I saw ‘tuna swimming’ on my itinerary while visiting South Australia. Sure, I’ve swum with dolphins, turtles, sea lions, even sharks. But tuna? My first (nonsensical) thought was ‘how do they get the cans to float?’
My ignorance was quickly dispelled within minutes of stepping onboard Adventure Lady, a 14m purpose built vessel, at Port Lincoln Marina. Captain Matt Waller loudly declared that he ‘loves eating tuna, catching tuna and talking about tuna,’ leaving no doubt about his passion for these fish before launching into a fascinating introduction into the tuna fishing industry. It’s a lucrative industry that sees the Port Lincoln community home to the highest population per capita of millionaires in Australia.
Beneath the surface is literally a sea of tightly packed fish darting swiftly and seemingly effortlessly just beyond my mask. Knowing that the Southern Bluefin Tuna never stop swimming, reaching speeds up to 70km per hour, it’s somewhat unnerving to be in such close proximity to these enormous fish. Some of them are almost as large my own 55 kg frame. Momentarily I notice a dead pilchard lob from above, which lands in front of my mask. I have just enough time to register its presence before it disappears in a blur of razor sharp teeth amid deep blue flashes reflecting sunlight on a rotund, streamlined body. A Southern Bluefin Tuna, commonly caught weighing in at over 100kg and up to 2m in length, snatches the fish in its gob as it whizzes past, leaving behind a turbid stream of bubbles.
How big are giant tuna? The clue is in the name
Having been pre-warned of the size and speed of the tuna, I’m still startled enough to inhale a mouthful of water as I gasp with surprise the first time it happens. Others in our group who have stayed on the floating pontoon above are dangling pilchards from their fists or lobbing them into the ocean around me. Being in the water is unsettling even though it’s perfectly safe. It’s fascinating being immersed in such a captive environment. Who knew that tuna could be so interesting? Or so large!
Thankfully I survive the encounter unscathed and with a newfound respect for these farmed fish that are actually quite beautiful. Port Lincoln fishermen steam more than 180 km offshore to catch Southern Bluefin Tuna, much of which is destined for the Japanese market. Live tuna are herded into floating nets and towed back to the waters surrounding Port Lincoln, a journey that can take up to five weeks. From there they are fattened up in farming nets just like the one I’ve emerged from, until they are ready to be harvested and exported.
You won’t need to travel all the way to Japan though to savour southern Australia’s delights. Award winning Del Giorno’s Cafe Restaurant on the Port Lincoln waterfront, just down the road from the Port Lincoln Hotel, has a menu that seafood lovers will relish. Though there is a thriving fish cannery in town, expect the freshest produce harvested from the diverse Eyre Peninsula, including wines produced locally like a sassy Sauvignon Blanc or two.
MORE INFORMATION
Do you want to see giant tuna, swim with great white sharks or sea lions at Port Lincoln? Click the links for more information.
Adventure Bay Charters
Tunarama Festival
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Are you wanting to know where to see polar bears in Canada? We’ve listed everything you need to know below.
Polar bears get their own global day (27 February) to help raise awareness of the challenges they face in a ever-changing world. We’ve highlighted some of the best polar bear photos from hiking with polar bears from Seal River Lodge in Manitoba, Canada
As Manitoba, Canada emerges from winter, polar bear mums with new cubs start to emerge from the snow dens they’ve bunkered down in.
As snow and ice start to melt in Arctic regions, 27 February is celebrated as International Polar Bear Day. This special day celebrates these magnificent apex predators, and is aimed at raising awareness and understanding of the challenges faced by polar bears in a changing world, where their habitat is threatened as the planet warms.
If you are lucky enough to see polar bears in the wild, on their own turf, grab the opportunity with both hands and don’t let it slip. It is, quite simply, extraordinary, and will create memories to last a lifetime. Watching polar bears going about their business in the wild is an incredible experience that is both beautiful and thrilling. There is nothing quite like staring into the eyes of an Arctic apex predator, safely accompanied by a knowledgeable guide, knowing that they are weighing up your potential as their next feed.
With more than 60% of the world’s polar bears found in Canada, the remote town of Churchill offers one of the best opportunities to see polar bears in the wild.
FIVE FUN FACTS ABOUT POLAR BEARS
Polar bears are the largest land carnivore: Males can weigh more than 700kg.
Polar bears aren’t actually white: Polar bears have black skin and hollow, colourless hair. Their hollow fur reflects light and traps the sun’s heat to help keep them warm.
Their movements might look slow and cumbersome but don’t be fooled: Polar bears can reach speeds of up to 40 km per hour on land and around 10 km per hour in water.
Shrinking sea ice is their biggest threat: The bears rely on sea-ice as a platform to hunt prey like seals. Rising temperatures is causing sea ice to melt earlier.
Two-thirds of polar bear litters are twins! A female polar bear has around five litters in a lifetime.
VIEW POLAR BEARS IN THE WILD VIA LIVE WEBCAM
If you’re curious about what polar bears get up to when they think no-one is watching them, watch live Polar Bear cam highlights from Wapusk National Park, Manitoba. We take no responsibility if you can’t drag yourself away for many hours and watch this endlessly – it’s not time wasted we promise!
HOW TO SEE POLAR BEARS AT CHURCHILL MANITOBA, CANADA
In Churchill, Manitoba, tundra buggies are a common way to see the rulers of the Arctic. Tundra buggies are all-terrain vehicles that stands over 13ft above the ground, which is a safe height from which to view polar bears in the event they are curious enough to stand on their hind legs to get a better look at the humans inside. ) and you’ll feel like you’re on top of the world. For tundra buggy tours check out Frontiers North, Lazy Bear Expeditions, Great White Bear Tours
Another option is a smaller scale, open-air, low-impact tundra vehicle, called a ‘rhino’ which can navigate boggy lowlands and tidal flats and gets you closer to seeing polar bears.
But really, the best way to see polar bears is at ground level, on their own turf on their terms. Churchill is the only place in the world that offers a walking tour by
Churchill Wild with polar bears. Yes, that’s right, you can hike with polar bears. eeeek! Churchill Wild offers one of the most extraordinary opportunities to literally walk in the footsteps of these Arctic apex predators. Guided walks combine seaplane flights from Churchill with almost a week-long stay in a lodge, right in the heart of polar bear country. This is the best opportunity to get up close and personal with these fantastic beasts in complete safety. Don’t be surprised to see polar bears sniffing around the safety fence (that’s to keep guests safe, not the bears, which are roaming wild) when the BBQ is fired up. They seem to be attracted to the tantalising aroma of grilled bacon, for some reason.
More information: Canada Keep Exploring
Where to see cassowaries at Mission Beach, Etty Bay and other cassowary habitats of north Queensland.
Cassowaries are one of Australia’s most spectacular (sorry emu’s you need to lift both your game and your colour palette), and one of only two of our flightless birds. Found in small pockets of Wet Tropics rainforest of north Queensland, the world’s third largest bird is an endangered species. Us humans are their biggest threat.
It’s hard to imagine that a bird that can weigh 60kg or more and stand taller than 2m could just disappear from the planet. With less than 4,000 cassowaries left alive, it’s a very real possibility.
Read on and you’ll find out where to see cassowaries around Cairns and north Queensland
A striking looking bird with a body cloaked in glossy black plumage, adult cassowaries have a significant casque, or helmet, on their heads and drooping red wattles that dangle like a string of beads from vibrant purple and blue necks.
The jury is still out on the purpose of its casque, but as it continues to grow throughout a cassowary’s life, it’s a reasonable indicator of a bird’s age. Research indicates it may also assist cassowaries in “hearing” the low vibrating sound made by other cassowaries. The casque is spongy inside a firm outer casing, so that it may also act as a kind of shock-absorber that protects the bird’s head when pushing through the dense rainforest it inhabits.
Cassowary habitats
The two main regions to sight cassowaries in the wild in north Queensland are around the Mission Beach area and the Daintree Rainforest at Cape Tribulation.
But cassowaries roam far and wide, foraging in forests to satisfy voracious appetites for fleshy fruits found in rainforest, melaleuca swamps and woodlands. Sometimes seen on beaches of tropical north Queensland, they mostly use these open areas to move between food sources.
Known as rainforest ‘gardeners’, cassowaries swallow fruit whole, digesting the pulp and passing the seeds in large piles of dung, distributing them over large areas throughout the rainforest. Cleverly, they revegetate their habitat while also devouring it!
Some rainforest seeds are reliant on the cassowary’s digestive process to help germination. Cassowary scat is humongous and can hundreds, if not thousands of seeds. A ready-made fertiliser, the dung helps many kinds of seed to grow into the rainforest that makes the Wet Tropics unique.
Where to see cassowaries at Mission Beach
Mission Beach has four small residential beachfront communities separated by conservation zones designated as wildlife corridors to allow cassowaries to move freely within native forest.
It’s not uncommon for residents to see them pop up in their gardens or along the road verge. The waste transfer station is a common place to sight them, as is the nearby walking track that links Wongaling Beach and South Mission Beach.
Other common spots for sightings are either side of the main road into Mission Beach, the grounds around Beachcomber Coconut Holiday Park at South Mission Beach, and the forest area around Licuala Rainforest Walk. Bingil Bay has a healthy population too – pop into Bingil Bay Cafe and the staff will likely know about the most recent sightings.
Threats to cassowaries
Vehicle strike and dog attacks are just some of the threats cassowaries face. Roads around the Mission Beach area have reduced speed limits to help prevent accidents as cassowaries are forced to cross roads when moving between forest areas. Sadly, not all drivers respect the vulnerability of the species and road accidents are too common.
Adults with chicks face particular threats as the young ones are oblivious to the dangers of speeding vehicles. Local residents (mostly) take much pride in their flightless residents and there’s a local movement to help preserve and protect this important species.
Mission Beach Cassowaries Facebook page acts as an unofficial record of sightings with locals regularly posting photos and videos of birds seen.
At the time of writing, Cassowary Coast Council has approved a helicopter landing facility which will impact cassowaries inhabiting an adjoining wildlife corridor, contrary to community sentiment. The beauty of Mission Beach is its natural heritage, peaceful ambiance and relaxed village lifestyle. It’s a short-sighted decision to approve an aviation business in the heart of the coastal village with its significant visual and noise pollution.
Where to see cassowaries at Etty Bay
There’s a small population of cassowaries inhabiting the rainforest surrounding the small cove of Etty Bay, approx 30 mins north of Mission Beach.
Here, it’s not uncommon to see cassowaries on the beach, poking around the beachfront caravan park or grazing on rainforest food on the roadside verge on the road into Etty Bay. Drive carefully on the winding section as you approach Etty Bay, as you may see cassowaries alongside this winding road.
Where to see cassowaries at the Daintree and Cape Tribulation
Further north, beyond Cairns and Port Douglas, the Daintree Rainforest and the Cape Tribulation area is home to a population of cassowaries. With a reduced speed limit from the ferry crossing of the Daintree River all the way to Cape Trib, cassowaries are often spotted roadside.
Drive slowly, wind down the windows and breathe in the pristine air filtered through one of the world’s oldest living rainforests.
Take one of the walking tracks along elevated boardwalks, such as the Madja Botanical Walk or Dubuji Boardwall to increase your chances of a cassowary sighting. Even if you don’t see a cassowary, through interpretative signage you’ll gain a terrific insight into the life cycle of Wet Tropics rainforest, mangrove wetlands and all its inhabitants, large and small.
Wild cassowaries often roam through the forest at the Daintree Discovery Centre, making the elevated boardwalks a prime viewing position, if you’re lucky enough to be there when cassowaries are roaming.
Have you seen a cassowary? Let us know in the comments below!
Fiona Harper
Where to pick blueberries in North Carolina's high country
Travelling through the USA for one month I was endlessly disappointed whenever I ordered a chai latte. Americans, it seems, just don't know how to make a good chai. Then I stumbled upon a foodie gem in the high country northwest of Raleigh and found a cafe who knows how to make chai!
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Hammock swinging is almost an Olympic sport in the Appalachian mountains
Heading northwest from Raleigh, we’re bound for West Jefferson at the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains. The only thing I know about our destination is that there will be a hammock strung between two trees. Not for sleeping in, mind. No, it seems that hammock swinging on the side of a mountain is a contender for a burgeoning Olympic sport in these parts. I’ve no complaints. In fact quite the opposite and I make a mental note to bring my best hammock game to West Jefferson.
As the late afternoon sun filters through the leafy canopy overhead, we string a hammock high on the ridge and have a calming view down through the valley and across to forest-clad mountains in the west. After a busy couple of weeks travelling through eastern USA, attending a crazy-busy travel media conference in Orlando, contracting COVID-19 and coming out of recovery, a long weekend in the mountains was exactly what my body and soul needed.
As enticing as it was to laze around watching clouds skid across the sky, there were mountains to be explored. Mountain men to meet. Blueberries to be gorged upon. And North Carolina’s best chai latte to be discovered – what an unexpected surprise that was! (hint: you’ll find North Carolina’s best chai latte at The General Store in Lansing). There was also delicious Pie on the Mountain Pizza to be devoured, Molly Chomper Cider to be slugged down and an adorably cute puppy at our friends’ home which needed cuddles and a lap to lounge upon. Who am I to deny such a creature such attention?
As to the rest of the long weekend traipsing around Lansing and North Carolina? Well, there was so much to see and do, I’ll let these pictures tell a thousand words…
Enjoy these photos from Lansing and West Jefferson amidst the foothills of the Appalachian mountains.
Exploring the mountains of West Jefferson & Lansing, North Carolina
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